When the Dead Seem Alive – Humayun’s Tomb

If you ever visit Delhi, then there is a placed Nizamuddin East. Do visit this place and very near the citadel of Dina-panah you would find a structure that is very historical and has seen history unfolding from centuries ago. Built under the instructions of Hamida Banu Begum the wife of Humayun, the Mughal Emperor, in the year 1562, it was the mastermind of a Persian architect. Made entirely of red sandstone, the UNESCO recognized it as a World Heritage Site in the year 1993. A lot of it was getting dilapidated so restoration efforts have been made to retain this historical edifice. The main tomb is the main structure in the place and there are many smaller ones surrounding it. The entrance is in the western side and there is the tomb of Isa Khan Niyazi which has been existing here even before the main tomb was constructed.

This tomb complex has the tombs of the wife of Humayun Hamida Begam and the son of the erstwhile Mughal king Shah Jahan, DAra Shikoh. Besides innumerable Mughal emperors of yore have been buried here. The exquisite work of the Mughal architecture is seen in this place and the lovely Charbagh garden is the icing on the cake of Persian kind of constructions. Never had India seen any architecture like this and this was the beginning of a revolution in Mughal architecture. Though Babur was the founder of the Mughal Empire, and his mausoleum today lies in Kabul in Afghanistan and was just a modest but lovely paradise garden, it was Humayun’s tomb that started a different trend of architectural elegance and excellence, and it ended with the Taj Mahal at Agra.

As Nizamuddin Dargah was very near the River Yamuna, this place was ideally chosen for the tomb garden. When Humayun died, his body was at Delhi. The tomb of Humayun began in 1565 when Hamida Begum ordered it to be built. This tomb is the representation of the introduction of Islamic Architecture in India, Apart from the Qutb Minar, Quwwat ul Islam mosque; such architecture sealed the fact that noting could surpass Mughal architecture. The concept of chhatris started at this time, and the combination of marble and red sandstone was seen earlier but got recognition here in this tomb.

The main tomb was built over a period of 8 years and is in the centre of the Four Gardens or the Char Bagh Gardens. This Charbagh garden is built in Persian style and is quadrilateral shaped. This is the first such garden built in South Asia. There are four divisions in the garden. There are walkways which are paved and lend comfort while walking around. These walkways or khiyabans are beautifully constructed and laid. There are also two water channels. The whole concept indicates the four rivers that flow in heaven or jannat. The four divisions have further sub divisions with pathways in each section. This design of squares within squares was later seen in all forms of Mughal architecture. The sight of the central water channel seeming to appear from under and then disappearing under the tomb and then coming up on the other side is indicative of the Quranic verse where it is said that rivers flower under the Garden of Paradise.

There are walls of rubble on all three sides. The fourth side was actually indicated to be River Yamuna, but now it has shifted its course from the main structure. The main central roads end at the two gates. There is a main gate in the southern end and a smaller gate in the west side of the wall. The entrances with two storeys are unique here and the tourists are normally allowed through the western gate now. The Mughal era saw the South gate being used but is closed today. There is a pavilion near the east side of this wall and it has 12 openings with doors. This signifies a room with 12 doors built in such a way that air circulates within always. Then there is the bath chamber or hammam on the north side of the rubble wall.

Today, this monument is always under a persistent threat of being attacked by terrorists or vandals. There are lot of illegal constructions and environmental hazards in and around the monument. Yet in spite of all the adversities, the monument even now stands tall in history and is proof to the historical past that India had.

The Humayun tomb is a lovely piece of monumental architecture and is a feast for the eyes. It is a must see for any tourist as he would feel the dead royalty of the past coming alive.